Eternyl Studios

Yikes-We are still here.

Drew — Wed, 28 Dec 2011 23:51:08 +0000

It’s been a while….over a year!…we’ve been super busy launching myshirtrocks.com (our dirtbag brand) and working with our core clients this past year.

We are back at the youtube tutorial vids at the start of the new year. So I promise not to be a stranger…oh yeah, eternylstudios.tumblr.com – we planned to move this new year, but the vote is in, and we will just build the current site. Hopefully tumbler will let us update a little better on the fly.

Drew

Favre to Starks Jersey

Drew — Fri, 14 Jan 2011 18:01:51 +0000

A simple fan fix for this up coming Packer playoff game versus the Atlanta Falcons.

All it takes is an old Favre Jersey and some duct tape.

(2 jerseys… if you want to cut out the extra #4 for a professional finished look…otherwise just use masking tape)

enjoy

Spot Color Seps: Part 6 Creating the Grey FIlm

Drew — Sun, 18 Oct 2009 14:24:38 +0000

Here we go with part 5 -- Continuing on with the guts of the sep…the ever aggravating grey film. Well not really but a lot of times it seems to get muddied up with some of the other colors. Hopefully this will help some of you out there who have issues getting a nice grey. In all honesty the best way to get a clean and crisp grey film is to create the art with that in mind from the start, so you can isolate it easier during the sep process.

Any questions, and if you are still confused, not to worry…we all struggled with seps in the beginning. It really is a forgotten art form, and often overlooked in the industry. You’re print will really only be as good as the sep, and the skill of the printer. So without much more to say, here is the video…

www.youtube.com/watch?v=_6Pvtz-Jmvw

Spot Color Seps: Part 5 The Yellow Film

Drew — Sat, 17 Oct 2009 14:13:04 +0000

Here we go with part 5 -- Continuing on with the guts of the sep…the Yellow film. This is really the same as the red just earlier on the color scale. The reason we are creating a red / yellow combo is that this particular piece of art has an orange which can be tricky at times, so to make it a bit easier, we can see what the bordering colors are going to give us.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=rAbnFLnMqAM

Spot Color Seps: Part 4 Pulling a Red film

Drew — Fri, 16 Oct 2009 14:08:13 +0000

Here we go with part 4 -- Now we are getting into the guts of the sep…and we could really go in any order here, it really only depends on you art. If you have and easier color to pull, I’d recommend going for that color, mainly because you can always knock out the colors you have already pulled from the original art, making each color easier and easier.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPltuSVLl6E

Spot Color Seps: Part 3 Creating the Highlight White

Drew — Thu, 15 Oct 2009 14:02:14 +0000

Here we go with part 3 -- Setting up a highlight white film and getting the DCS output file saved and ready to work with. The highlight film is another pretty straight forward sep to pull off, although sometimes it gets screwy with some light greys and yellows. If you created you art with this in mind…no problem, but if you are working from a flattened file, you will have some manual clean up ahead of you. The importance of the highlight white will basically give you the pop you are looking for on many of your colors…just make sure you don’t over do it.

Feel free to comment with any questions, and if you are still confused, not to worry…we all struggled with seps in the beginning. It really is a forgotten art form, and often overlooked in the industry. You’re print will really only be as good as the sep, and the skill of the printer. So without much more to say, here is the video…

www.youtube.com/watch?v=xwQtENhng_Y

Spot Color Seps: Part 2 Creating the Underbase Film

Drew — Wed, 14 Oct 2009 13:51:24 +0000

Here we go with part 2 -- Creating an Underbase, so you can print on all color tees, and especially black garments. The quick youtube walk throughs is basically the 2nd easiest Spot Sep to pull off, and although it is not always needed it is always good to include in your file. It is essentially the2nd anchor to the sep, because from the underbase you can always tell if your black is correct. Basically you don’t want to underbase any black ink, so it is esentially the opposite of black…of course I’m simplifying it a bit, but you get jist of it.. Feel free to comment with any questions, and if you are still confused, not to worry…we all struggled with seps in the beginning. It really is a forgotten art form, and often overlooked in the industry. You’re print will really only be as good as the sep, and the skill of the printer. So without much more to say, here is the video…

www.youtube.com/watch?v=186Nz2erRgw

Spot Color Seps: Part 1 Creating the Black Film

Drew — Wed, 14 Oct 2009 01:45:56 +0000

Here we go -- The quick youtube walk throughs are going up as we speak….and of course the Black Film is where we all start off. Basically once you have a black film you, can use the film as a knock out to help sep out the other colors much easier. It is essentially the anchor to the sep. Feel free to comment with any questions, and if you are still confused, not to worry…we all struggled with seps in the beginning. It really is a forgotten art form, and often overlooked in the industry. You’re print will really only be as good as the sep, and the skill of the printer. So without much more to say, here is the video…

www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ad_rpNWTa0

Photoshop Seps 101

Drew — Sat, 10 Oct 2009 14:37:53 +0000

Seps out of Photoshop are bit of a mystery to a lot of people. Since I am in the middle of putting together our tutorial videos, as well as beginning a new more involved set, I thought some corresponding posts might be helpful as well.

So here is some basic, basic, basic information on Spot Color Separating with Photoshop.

Basically when needing to sep a piece of art that was created in Photoshop, you need to get that beautiful art into separate colors and into channels. 1 Channel will equal 1 film, meaning 1 color screen on the press…..but its always good to have a channeled sep file and an original layered art file….otherwise edit or changes are jsut about impossible. Ok, well not impossible, but you’ll have to start from scratch.

When you create art in photoshop, its always best to keep layers seperate…type layers…individual background layers…element layers….that way when separating you can isolate the objects better. 200-300 dpi is a good range…and make the art true to size. So just create a piece as you want in photoshop and then sep later in a new multichannel file when it’s done. Just remember the more complex you have the colors merged in 1 layer the tougher it will be to pull those colors out. So if you merge a bunch of elements together it does get hard to “unmerge” them into basic colors.

While some artists may suggest painting right into channels…if you need an edit for a client or just want to use an element in a new piece of art…you will have a much much tougher time.

The industry standard is outputting a DCS 2.0 eps multichannel file though Photoshop, into illustrator, or quark, or Indesign….basically as a placed file.

A separation artist will pull out each color and make a new channel in a new file off of your art…or you can watch some of our videos and learn to sep yourself…just be aware it is an art form there is a learning curve, and you will probably have to retrain the way you think about working process….but fortunately there are many ways to accomplish the task, and it really will give you a new appreciation for the screen printing process.

Spot Color Seps: Intro PSD Tutorial Series

Drew — Thu, 08 Oct 2009 05:07:42 +0000

The start of the Eternyl Asylum -- Quick & Dirty Tutorial Series. I’ll keep the chatter down on this first episode, because it speaks for itself.